At new Moorenko's, ice cream is not just fair weather fare

By Robin Tierney
Photos by Julie Wiatt

Need an excuse to indulge in ice cream in the winter? You’ll find a couple dozen scrawled on the blackboard menu at Moorenko’s, which recently opened in south Silver Spring.

Susan Soorenko, owner of the independent enterprise, suggests another novel excuse: cold food keeps you warm. “It’s physics – a young man who grew up in India just told me that your body generates more heat when it’s processing cold food! Who knew?”

The dessert diva now dispenses wisdom and wit with scoops of her exotic, homemade delicacies at two locations: her original shop, opened in 2002 in McLean, and in her new cafe on Georgia Avenue. In keeping with the adjacent Arts Alley, Moorenko’s (as in Soorenko plus Moo) is graced by geometric shapes, cheery colors and a fun, funky modern-retro mix.

New flavor creations are the big draw, with seasonal arrivals including pumpkin, cranberry walnut, fresh ginger, rice pudding, egg nog and apple pie. “Our new rising star is Chocolate Covered Pretzel. We hand-dip pretzels in melted bittersweet chocolate and mix them into a light vanilla base,” says Soorenko, crediting the idea to her brother, who owns the Arts Alley space. “We can’t make it fast enough!”

Flavors aren’t all that make Moorenko’s special. The dairy products, from small Virginia farms run on organic principles, are growth hormone-free. Many flavoring components are imported from Italy, explaining the gelato-like quality. The chocolate comes from a French family of chocolatiers now based in California. To maintain the highest quality, Soorenko oversees each two-tub batch. Locals who’ve discovered the new business in the Silver Spring/DC Gateway district are quickly embracing it. “People here are excited that I’m independent; they see the face of the person who makes their ice cream.”

The new regulars talk about ice cream like it’s wine. “That’s my kind of person,” smiles Soorenko. While possessing a passion for crafting new flavors, she shares this secret: “An aficionado will taste your vanilla first.” That’s the true test – tasting for the quality of the dairy product and determining whether the vanilla is artificial or lesser-grade.

"Susan’s vanilla is phenomenal,” says Rodney Elin, who lives a few blocks from Moorenko’s, as he tells other patrons “you haven’t had vanilla ’til you try this, it’s so intense.” The ice cream connoisseur offers another tip: “Combine her pumpkin with cinnamon.”

Demand varies between Soorenko’s two shops, says the entrepreneur. “In Silver Spring we keep selling out of ginger, pumpkin, chocolate-covered pretzel, rice pudding and pomegranate sorbet.”
Crave something off the menu? Moorenko’s makes special-order flavors. One couple had Soorenko create a batch of pear-flavored ice cream as a birthday present for their son.

With a few days’ notice, Moorenko’s can create tasty, unique ice cream cakes. Try pumpkin for Thanksgiving, cranberry walnut or peppermint stick for Christmas, hazelnut for Hanukah. “I haven’t gotten down the potato latke ice cream yet,” confides Soorenko. “It still needs work.”

Seeing the ice cream queen in action, it’s not surprising to learn she was a fitness trainer and club owner before dipping into the ice cream business. In 2002 she studied at Ice Cream University in New York, then traveled to Italy to further her studies. “I’m going to Italy again this January,” she says. Her itinerary includes the annual ice cream convention in Rimini and visits to two schools in Bologna to study technique.

Twice a week, on Mondays from 4-5 p.m. and Tuesdays from 11 a.m. to noon, Moorenko’s offers live song and dance programs for children. Since ’tis the season to be jolly, celebrants can use Moorenko’s private dining room for holiday parties, birthdays, team rallies, business meetings, book clubs...though probably not diet clubs.

Moorenko’s does off-site catering as well. Recent events ranged from a Greater Silver Spring Chamber of Commerce gathering of 200 to a 2,000-person soirée at Discovery Communications at the end of the month. They’ve provided ice cream for Bar Mitzvahs and funerals, even “an ice cream wedding cake – four tiers!”

“Their ice cream is to die for,” says John Landis. The co-owner/manager of nearby Crisfield Seafood Restaurant and his staff enjoy breaks at their new neighbor’s sweet shop. “It’s great having a new place in south Silver Spring, and great for my customers.”

“What’s special about Moorenko’s is that it’s not a national chain, not even a local chain,” says Susan Hoffmann, marketing manager for Downtown Silver Spring. And of course, she adds, “the heavenly ice cream in very unusual flavors you would never find anywhere else. They’re unique, very much like Silver Spring itself.”

Soorenko has made arrangements with the Curry Club, a Georgetown restaurant that will prepare and deliver fresh lunch and dinner fare daily for eating in and carryout. Selections include homemade chutneys and pea fritters.

There’s yet another reason to enjoy ice cream as the weather turns cold. “This time of year is when an independent operator really needs local support,” notes Soorenko. “Visit Moorenko’s in the winter to make sure we’ll be here in the summer!”

Moorenko’s Ice Cream 8030-B Georgia Ave. Silver Spring 301-588-5656 11 am - 9 pm Sun-Thurs 11 am - 10 pm Fri-Sat